Ask a North Korean Read online

  Since officially ending the tax system in 1974, the government has been claiming that there are no taxes in North Korea. But when you actually look closely, North Korea collects tax in its own special way.

  How can we describe the lives of the poorest socioeconomic class in North Korea?

  DT: It would surely not surprise you to know that the poorest people in North Korea live in truly dire material circumstances. Though grassroots capitalism is enabling many to make a better living these days, malnutrition is still a problem. If you spend time anywhere in North Korea outside Pyongyang, you will definitely see evidence of this.

  Cho Ui-seong:

  If we were to divide people into a social hierarchy, the criterion for the lowest strata would be economic. The great famine of the 1990s (referred to as the “Arduous March”) divided people into those who had to worry about their next meal and those who didn’t, and in accordance with this many people were reclassified as part of the lowest social class. The media tends to focus on the horrible lives of North Koreans, and many people have already testified about that awful time. It pains me to even think of it, so I would rather try to show the persistence of life overcoming death, the North Koreans pioneering a new way of life, and the wellspring of compassion that rises up from the bottom of society.

  First of all, you misunderstand if you imagine that those in the bottom level of North Korean society are ignorant and frivolous people. There are many cultured, intellectual people among them. This is because those hit hardest by the famine were the intellectual and literary class who were working for society and trusted in the rationing system. Their kind of knowledge did not help them understand and respond quickly to the danger. In fact, it did the opposite. Those who fell into famine included many intellectuals. But those who survived have had a considerable impact on so-called “lowest class” culture. They have played a leading role in the creation and spread of common culture in areas such as the education of children, economic activity, simple humor and jokes amid a rapidly changing environment.

  I sense that the poorest people are the most filled with jeong [human warmth and mutual sacrifice]. Sometimes it seems like the most desirable kind of life. I hope you do not think me too objective or “literary” for saying that, because I have experienced life at the bottom of the bottom. It isn’t as terrible as you may imagine. There is a kind of humor allowing people to laugh at their difficulties, and there is jeong, which fills the void of poverty. It is a bare place, but one where children run wild to their heart’s content. If happiness is subjective, the children of North Korea must be ten times happier than those in South Korea, who are locked in constant competition over grades at schools and private academies.

  The most memorable treat from my childhood was “Speed Battle Rice Cake.” You add water to the powder that comes when you modify corn, and after stirring it for five minutes you get rice cake [of course it isn’t literally “rice” cake]. It is a specialty that men, women, and children like. It is sticky and just a few can fill your belly for the whole day. But we couldn’t have it often.

  Anyone who has ever seen how important speed is to a hungry person will agree. It is also a favorite food for college students, who are always hungry. One day a guest came, and my mother made some of that “Speed Battle Rice Cake.” She’d saved the ingredients for special occasions. There was no happier day than that one, because we got to eat the rice cake.

  In North Korea, we emphasize hospitality to the extent that there is an expression, “eating well thanks to a guest” [i.e., all the good food comes out when a guest arrives]. In any house, the best blanket is the guest blanket.

  People laugh and cry because of jeong, and through this feeling, those at the very bottom overcome difficulties and survive.

  The good news is that things are much better now. People have gradually learned to live with a market system, and no longer will people die in huge numbers for putting their trust in the state. Now the idea that people are responsible for their own lives has taken hold.

  But maybe people don’t have as much jeong as before, as the markets are growing and people are becoming interested in money. In the countryside, though, things are unchanged. Rural people, who are still not completely free from hunger themselves, will still feed passing travelers.

  While there isn’t enough space to go into detail about the various aspects of life that I have seen, heard and felt as I traveled around North Korea, I hope this article goes some small way to adding brightness and warmth to the image of desolation and darkness of the poorest in North Korean society.

  How do you get a job in North Korea? And can you change jobs easily?

  DT: The famine of the 1990s changed everything. Prior to this catastrophic event, the government assigned you a job, and you did it—for the rest of your life. Today though, you’ll probably bribe your way out of that useless job, and do something else.

  Mina Yoon:

  Traditionally, people in North Korea did not have the freedom to choose their occupation. You were assigned a job by the government, and it became your lifelong job. The reason for this is very simple: As part of maintaining strict control over all kinds of resources under its collectivist system, the government researches how many people are needed in each industry and location, and assigns people accordingly.

  But things changed after the rationing system broke down in the 1990s. Your official job is now nothing more than a meaningless title you can mention when asked, “Where do you work?” The factories stopped manufacturing long ago, and factory workers cannot expect compensation for their labor. Even though you have a job from the government, you have to find your own ways of earning a living. That’s why many parents in North Korea have started bribing government officers even before their kids graduate high school. They want their kids to get decent jobs that still pay salaries and provide rations.

  Among the most popular workplaces in North Korea are organizations earning foreign currency. Those organizations, launched in the early 2000s, have now spread everywhere in North Korea. What they are doing is basically exporting North Korean resources abroad and creating funds for the government. People working in those organizations still receive rations, and on top of that, they also have a chance for additional income, depending on their performance. People working in these organizations are admired, much like those in big companies such as Samsung in South Korea.

  Foreign currency-earning organizations are very powerful because most of them are under the umbrella of the party, the armed forces or other powerful government agencies. Competition to get into those organizations is severe, and you need to have either a very strong family background or a lot of money to be employed there. Actually, most of the people working in those organizations are children of party officers or executives of wealthy foreign currency-earning organizations.

  Some factories have been very popular among job seekers, due to their being under the direct supervision of Kim Jong Il or Kim Jong Un. Direct supervision from the Kim family means exceptionally good conditions. It means raw materials will be provided by the government so that actual production can take place. Workers will therefore receive rations. Also, some workers will have access to products that they can steal and sell elsewhere.

  Due to increasing demand for more rewarding jobs, bribery is becoming more common in North Korea. There are certain steps to follow to get the desired job: First, you have to bribe government officers and steal your personnel record from the local administrative agency. Then you have to bribe the factory manager or local party secretary so that they will issue a letter of confirmation that they would like to hire you. Finally, you have to submit that letter to the administrative agency in charge of assigning jobs. Everyone involved knows about the other parties’ bribery, but they overlook it.

  These days, parents try to think of any possible way to get their kids good jobs through bribery or using their family background. People who cannot afford to bribe officers just send thei
r kids wherever they are assigned. Instead, they bribe managers in the factory so that their kids do not have to go to work; they then go and work in the market instead, but they have to give part of their income to the factory. A majority of the younger women work as vendors in the market with their names registered in their formally assigned workplaces. What is important is that they are registered; in North Korea, not having a job is illegal and can result in punishment.

  Veterans who served in the military for more than 10 years are also assigned new jobs when they are discharged. Most of them go back to their hometown and work where the local government tells them to. However, some unlucky soldiers are not allowed to return to where they came from. The government assigns thousands of recently discharged veterans onto national projects or businesses that need large-scale manpower. Those subject to these assignments have no choice but to go.

  For example, when Kim Jong Il was alive, he supervised Taehongdan-gun in Ryanggang province, which is rich with potatoes but has few people living in it. Kim Jong Il started supervising the region and soon he figured out there were not enough people to grow the potatoes. So thousands of veterans had to move to Ryanggang and become lifelong potato farmers.

  They had to build houses to live in with their own hands. They were also concerned about their children’s future, because the children of farmers might also be assigned to work in the farms when they grew up. Despite these concerns, there was nothing they could do. It was a policy set by Kim Jong Il and they did not want to rebel.

  There was also a lack of women for them to marry. Many of the veterans in Ryanggang still have not found spouses. Taehongdan-gun is just one example; this kind of forcible placement is happening all over the country with many different national businesses, making soldiers nearing their date of discharge worry about their future.

  However, as I described so far, strict regulations on occupations now exist in name only, since the collapse of the social system in North Korea. Bribery has become so widespread that it is now uncontrollable. I think these changes are clearly another symptom of the failed system of socialism.

  What is life like for a “one-percenter” in North Korea?

  DT: “Rich” and “North Korean” might seem mutually exclusive terms. These days, though, that’s not always the case. The emerging North Korean capitalism means that most people have more than before, but also that a small handful are becoming very wealthy indeed.

  Kim Yoo-sung:

  My wife’s father is known as the richest man in her hometown. I had no knowledge of this until another North Korean from the same province told me. He said that he would even call my wife’s father “Lee Kun-hee” (Samsung Electronics chairman), or even the Donald Trump of that province. According to him, everyone in that region would immediately recognize my father-in-law by his name. That’s how rich he was.

  My father-in-law was in charge of a company that made a net profit of $6–7 million per month. When his business was doing really well, the company would earn much more than that.

  What did they normally eat on a daily basis? The kinds of food on their table included lamb, seal, sea urchin roe, pollock eggs and chicken eggs. These were always on the table for every single meal, simply because my father-in-law enjoyed them. Despite the widespread image of a poverty-stricken North Korea, rich families can easily afford to eat luxuriously like this in North Korea. The dishes specified above were in addition to a bigger set of dishes my wife ate every day. My wife would go into more detail, but thinks North Korean authorities could use additional details about his diet to track him down.

  Car owners are the most admired people in North Korea. It isn’t easy to own a car there, even if you have the money to buy one. My wife tells me that her dad owned a couple of the most luxurious, expensive cars in North Korea. He had one for commuting to work and another for business trips. In addition to owning two expensive cars, he also had a servant who wiped and washed his car every morning.

  My wife says her father was a successful businessman but loved to laugh and enjoy his leisure time. On New Year’s, North Koreans have a blast and grownups don’t forget to give pocket money to children. But she says her dad would frequently take $500—in American dollars—out of his wallet and give it to her. Even in the U.S. or South Korea, I don’t think they would just take $500 out their wallets and give to their children on the spot just because they feel like it—unless, of course, they were rich too.

  I myself come from a town far from Pyongyang, and my family was never rich. During holidays, I always stayed at home and celebrated with my family and relatives. But my wife says she traveled to Pyongyang, where her father showered her and her mom with expensive gifts of clothing and gourmet dishes on New Year and Chuseok. My wife went to the Moranbong entertainment facilities and the family had delicious noodles at Pyongyang’s famous Okryukwan.

  They would go to sauna at the end of the day. My wife says the sauna charged $100 per person. Even in the U.S. and South Korea, it has to be an expensive sauna if you have to pay $100 to get in, right? In North Korea most ordinary people make less than $100 a month. I can’t even begin to imagine how luxurious it must be inside if it costs $100 to take one bath there.

  And her weekend fun didn’t end there. My wife would go bowling with her parents and to sporting events. North Korea has beautiful places where people like to go sightseeing, but not everyone can afford to go. But thanks to her dad, who enjoyed sightseeing and had money, my wife went to see all those famous mountains and holiday destinations, including Baekdu, Chilbo, Kumgang and Yongmun-daegul.

  Want to hear another big perk of having a rich dad? Lo and behold, famous actors were invited to her birthday parties. There was an actor who was often dubbed the nation’s biggest heartthrob. My wife’s dad knew that she was a huge fan, so he personally invited this actor to his daughter’s birthday party. I know how teenage girls rave about actors and singers. In the U.S., when Twilight was popular, teenage girls were crazy about Robert Pattinson, weren’t they? Can you imagine your dad inviting Robert Pattinson to your home for your birthday party?

  Undoubtedly, my wife was one lucky child throughout her school years. She took on the leader’s role and responsibilities in her class every year. She was at the forefront of every duty at school. Her maids prepared a home-cooked lunchbox, which she took to school for her homeroom teacher. Thanks to this, her teacher never had to worry about lunch. If something troublesome happened at school, she would have her dad take care of it, since he had money and power.

  Of course, my wife had a personal computer at home. So, whenever her friends had homework requiring the use of a computer, they would come by her house. Her dad always sent two sacks of rice worth half a million North Korean won. Other teachers were always jealous of her homeroom teacher. They would often tell my wife, “You should be in my class. Why don’t you just come to my class?” When the winter approached, her family hired servants to make special kimchi for them. They made sure that the servants make three or four kinds of kimchi.

  When her dad was in his car on the road, cops would come and say, “Dear comrade, please help us.” That was one of the usual things my wife would hear when she was in the car with her dad. Her dad was not just making money but he was contributing a handsome amount of money to the regime. So, people treated him differently and they always favored him. Her dad was always dealing with governors of provinces. He wouldn’t spend time having small talk with officials of lower rank, such as mayors. He thought it was a waste of time.

  On Chuseok, a national holiday, North Koreans walk to the graves of their ancestors to pay respects. But my wife’s family was chauffeured to the graves, of course. My wife says they had overflowing boxes of apples, pears and South Korean snacks, such as Choco-Pies and chaltteok pie in storage. Everyone in the family would help themselves to these foods.

  Her dad traveled to other countries such as Mongolia and China. Every time he went to China, he would always bring a variety o
f nice clothes for my wife. In winter, he would bring mink coats for his baby girl.

  My wife came to South Korea two years ago and her father still lives in North Korea. Therefore, I choose not to reveal his name, nor his company’s name, for the sake of his safety. If I were to reveal any of his personal information, the North Korean authorities could track him down. I’m sure you can imagine what would happen to him.

  I have not met him, since he is still in North Korea and I met my wife here [in South Korea]. But he’s still my father-in-law, and he brought my wife into this world, so I worry about his well-being and pray for his safety every day. Even if he weren’t related to me, I wouldn’t want to do anything to put him in immediate danger.

  My wife has been at my side as I’ve been telling this story. She says talking about her dad brought back many memories and she misses her dad terribly. My wife has one message for her dad:

  “Dear Dad, I’m doing well in the South. I pray for your health and happiness every day. I will never cease to do so. You’re always in my thoughts and prayers. Oh, and you have a granddaughter now! Until unification, please be well, be safe, be happy. I pray for you here in the South.”

  How did North Koreans turn towards capitalism?

  DT: “Profit” used to be a dirty word in North Korea—until it became a necessity. Back in the 1990s, it was said that the only way to survive was by defying the state’s orders and going out to make money for oneself. North Koreans have remembered that lesson, and are not looking back. Despite the rise of marketization, North Korea still lacks the capability to produce goods that can compete with imports. Anything foreign is prized over a local equivalent, even a toothbrush.